DAY OF THE DEAD

It is with a certain regret I begin this third edition. I had intended to add the latest posting last week but was sidetracked with an emergency hospital stay. It seems an old acquaintance in the form of an intestinal blockage decided to pay an unexpected visit and I am just now getting back to normal. All seems well now, however, and I can once again relate some of the wonderful experiences to be had in this great place.

For whatever reasons, Kate and I had not previously been in Mexico during the October 31-November 2 event known as Day of the Dead or "Dias de Muertes." We made a promise to one another not to miss this year. With luck we shall not miss another. It is magical. Here is how it works in a nutshell. (Please forgive specific historical details.)

The Day of the Dead is a conglomeration of western and indigenous religious soup. For many hundreds of years native peoples celebrated the event as a month long fesitval around the month of August. In the ancient beliefs the life experienced on a daily basis was in fact a dream. The real world existed elsewhere. As a result fear of death was mitigated. To "die" was only to return to the real world from which you came originally. Each year after returning to the real world by dying, you would visit your dream family. To welcome back the deceased "real world" family members, friends, and beloved leaders was the purpose for the festival.

When westerners arrived they church attempted to stomp out the pagan celebration as work of the devil. (Doesn't it seem that Christian religions tend to attribute the devil's work to anything they don't agree with? Some things never change.) This tradition (unique in all the world's cultures) was so strong the church had no chance. As a conciliatory gesture the church decided to allow the festival to continue in conjunction with All Saints Day which was the deriviative of the modern Halloween. Today this wondrous holiday is held October 31-November 2 each year.

On the first day, Halloween, family members create an altar in their homes. I have not seen such an altar as it is a highly private affair and it is considered a great honor to be invited to participate. This is a solemn occasion and much care and thought goes into the construction with the participation of all family members. Typical altars include a sugar cane arch. Candles and an incense from the "tree that weeps" which is called Copal burn for 3 days. (Copal, by the way, is the only wood which the local wood carvers use for the magical creations we sell on our internet sites.) On the altar are placed items which the deceased loved one enjoyed so they will feel welcome upon their return. Naturally this must include food and drink. How else would they be able to visit for several days? Everybody has to eat! Moles (sauces), chicken, desserts, liquor, cigarretes or cigars, musical instruments etc. are included. There is no specific list as each loved one had distinct tastes, likes and dislikes.

On the second day, November 1, the dead children return and much joy is to be found as all the happy reunions with those who died young are experienced. The smiling faces and cute antics of those little family members who never reached adulthood are the center piece of the day's activities. Rocking horses, baby carraiges, toys and candy are the order of the day. One unusual item to be found is the ample supply of skull shaped and decorated sugar candies. To eat one is to honor the dead person whose name is to be found written with frosting upon it.

The third and last day, November 2, is the day for the return of adults. This is certainly an adult oriented event with much liquor, beer and partying to be had by all. This was the day we chose to go to the local cemetary (panteon). San Felipe del Agua is a small village but it has a great cemetary. As we approached, the street to the entrance had been blocked off and many vendors of rum, food and soft drinks were to be found. Music filled the air. We entered into a world of flowers, incense, music, and people. People everywhere! I never would have believed so many happy people would be in a cemetary at one time. There were two bands playing around the graves of select departed. There were children climbing all over head stones and crypts. There were flowers, particularly huge gold marigolds, on almost every grave site. People were eating food on the tops of crypts as they maintained vigil. And, of course, all the dead certainly joined in the food and fun as plenty of beans, rice, booze, sweets, tortillas, etc. were to be found spread throughout the graves set aside especially for them. It was extraordinary.

The children, many dressed as spooks of various sorts, went throughout the crowd and held up small bags. I did not realize until later I was supposed to put pesos in the bags. I suspect the kids figured I was a cheap gringo. Kate, however, found me in the madness and asked if I had any coins as she was cleaned out. I gave her what I had and that was gone in minutes as well. Fair warning tourists! If you go to the cemetary, take lots of pesos!

That all having been said, please enjoy the few pictures I was able to take prior to the battery dying on the camera. I promise an extra battery next year and many many more pictures. Until next time,
hasta la juego!